These days, sustainability is a hot-hot-hot buzz word in winegrowing, and the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is a exceptionally coveted real estate tagline for a wine label. But it wasn’t always thus, especially back in 1973 when Rich and Claudia Smith began planting what would become their 400-acre Paraiso Vineyards.
Though this humble couple would eschew such tags as visionaries and pioneers, they helped put both sustainability and “SLH” on the map – not just by talking the talk, but by walking the walk. Fully intending their efforts as a springboard for future generations (and Paraiso is indeed a generational family affair), the Smiths have been using environmentally-friendly farming techniques since day one. Rich was also a founding member of the Vineyard Team back in 1996, and in 2008, Paraiso was the first SLH vineyard to become SIP™ certified.
The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA was established in 1991 (largely due to the efforts of Rich Smith, Nicky Hahn of Hahn Estates, and Phil Johnson of Estancia). While the distinctions of some AVAs are subtle, those of the SLH are rugged and dramatic. There’s often thick fog, usually sparse rain during the growing season, and always wind … as in wind tunnel wind! Whoever thought this was a good place for wine grapes?
Thankfully, the Smiths were among a handful of growers who did, but if you think it was easy, just have a look at the Paraiso vineyard map. These 400 acres are not a square, monolithic 20×20 block, but 16 different blocks tumbling up the flanks of the Santa Lucia Range — all with their own unique combinations of microclimates and soil climates.
At first, the Smiths grew grapes for other wineries such as La Crema, Morgan, Mondavi, Caymus, Saintsbury, and Hess. Perhaps, you’ve … ahem … heard of those names? Though they still produce grapes for other labels, the Smiths began bottling their estate wines under the “Paraiso Springs” name in 1990, which was rebranded to simply Paraiso in 2001. Though primarily known for their silky Pinot Noirs and luscious Chardonnays (both of which bring home plenty of competition bling, btw), Paraiso is also making a splash with Syrahs that exhibit classic cool climate characteristics.
Several other labels in the SLH AVA are also having some significant success with Syrah, but anyone care to venture a guess as to who planted the area’s first Syrah vines back in 1989? Anyone? C’mon, this is the easiest question you’re going to get all week!
